TRIPOWERS FOR SALE

The tripowers I am building are bolt-on units, ready to run. I can build one either with or without the oil filler tube, depending on your needs. Describe your motor and I can suggest proper jetting. Let me know what you need for vacuum sources and I will set the tripower up especially for your application. I can provide vacuum for the power brakes, PCV, or transmission modulator if needed. My tripowers are not generic units, they are made just for your application.

I use new Offenhauser intake manifolds, but can get Edelbrock intakes if you prefer. All carb studs are new. I stock matching Offenhauser valve covers with or without provisions for the PCV. Let me know what you need. Special price on the Offy valve covers when you purchase the tripower. By the way, the intakes and valve covers are new casting made from the original molds.

The units come with an electric choke which only requires one hot wire from the ignition side. I can replace this with a manual choke for a credit if that is what you prefer. However, I recommend the electric choke. The choke units are new.

The linkage is stainless and adjustable. It all runs off the passenger side as you can see in the pic:

The center carb has the longer throttleshaft protruding from the passenger side. This is very common. However, the shaft is cut with a key way so the lever that operates the end carbs is attached firmly. Most companies that make the aftermarket linkage use a splined shaft. Most of the used tripowers I have purchased a swap meets over the years have shafts with stripped out splines. Very common. Problem solved with the improved throttleshaft.

Fuel lines are stainless steel with special fittings that can be tightened over and over without damage or leakage. The fuel block is aluminum. Quality fuel lines are VERY IMPORTANT. You know the " F word."

This is an actual picture a customer sent me of his 435 HP vette many years ago

Never, never run rubber fuel lines on a tripower. I have seen many homemade fuel line sets that are functional. However, they often are the result of a trip to the plumbing section of the local hardware store and have a number of fittings. Each joint is an opprotunity for a leak. Remeber the "F word." These are the best fuel lines I have found and they look nice and clean as well.

The end carbs are critical on your tripower. They must seal very well as these special carbs do not have idle circuits and any leak at the throttleplates is a vacuum leak, resulting in a poor idle and lean mixture at higher speeds. Regular Rochester 2 bbls, known as 2GCs (C stands for choke) have throttleplates that are 3/64" thick. This is good enough for the center carb, and fine on a car with one carb. However, Rochester used thicker (5/64") throttleplates on the tripower end carbs used on the Olds J-2s, the early Pontiacs and the old 348 tripowers.

These early end carbs from the 50's and 60's are getting difficult to locate in good condition. Many, when found, have rust in the throttlebores and would leak air, anyway. I start with select cores from late 50s to mid-60's Chevys. I send them to a speciality shop that machines the throttleshaft opening oversized and replaces the old throttleshaft with an oversized one that also protrudes on the passenger side to accommodate the throttle linkage. These shafts have the larger 5/64" slot for the NEW throttleplates. The power valve and power piston are removed and special, threaded stainless plugs inserted to block the openings. I do not fill these openings with JB Weld, Epoxy, or any number of products as I have seen others do over the years. The openings for the choke, which has been removed are tapped and threaded plugs or stainless push-in plugs inserted for a clean, factory look. New shafts, threaded plugs, new throttleplates, and machined bores. This is the right way to do the job.

I use new, brass floats, not the newer composition floats, in all the carbs. The old needle/seat that is prone to sticking has been replaced with a much improved checkball valve that employs a pair of stainless steel checkballs. I use quality Echlin kits rather than kits from the local discount auto parts chains.

Carb bodies and all rods and levers are glass beaded. All screws and washers replaced with new ones. All studs on intake are new. Throttlebodies are finished with a cast look. Carb bodies can be left natural aluminum, dyed with Eastwood Products to appear as in the picture, or powdercoated to your specifications.